I got all the nuts off the studs without snapping one of the studs, without stripping the nut, and without breaking anything else.
Getting the head to actually come off has been another issue. I was able to get it loose by banging a screwdriver into the (hairline) gap between the block and the head. The Moyer Marine shop manual recommends filing down a screwdriver so it's has a nice taper (basically, you make a shank worthy of a prison-yard out of it) and using it to pry the block off the head. This worked, to a degree, but my real success came when I used the smallest screwdrivers I had. They were just small enough to work and just big enough to create enough of a gap to get a stronger screwdriver in there to pry apart the two pieces.
And I discovered that I have the dreaded "green gasket." That means the head gasket was either never replaced, or it was replaced, at best, 20 years ago. From what I have read at the Moyer Marine community boards, the green gasket was responsible for so many compression failures that people began to think the engine itself had come to the end of its service life. Apparently an engineer at a gasket company heard about the problem and invented the "steel reinforced" gasket we all use today.
I'm going back tomorrow to see what I can do about getting the head all the way off. Already, by peeking into the gap, I can see that it's a damned mess in there. I'm eager to clean, get the head back on, and then clean and paint the engine.

This first picture is the exhaust manifold (it's upside down). I think that this is the last stop for the cooling water and for the exhaust gases before they hit the muffler and exhaust pipe (next stop: the atmosphere, there to trap some CO2).

And this picture is the tap-tap pry-pry method of getting the head off the block. Effective!